From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2009
Wearing wraparound Dubai views like a pair of designer shades, Toshi really is a beautiful restaurant. As city lights rush and glitter below, this glassy penthouse has a fibre optic bar, Chinese archways, elegant Buddhas and luxurious Asian furniture. But Toshi is not a fine-dining restaurant: a charming story at the start of the menu explains that a simple country boy was so inspired by a visit to the region that he made it his life’s mission to open a pan-Asian restaurant simply serving the Orient’s tastiest dishes.

He did well with the selection, as what follows is a cherry-picked collection of Asian favourites that spans Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Malaysian cuisines. The starters are acceptable – the Malaysian chicken satay is exquisitely tender, but the satay sauce lacks pizzazz. The Chinese shrimp wonton soup – a weightless blend of coriander, ginger, carrots and bok choy bobbing with fluffy shrimp dumplings – is good without being brilliant.

But the mains get better. Toshi has a particular talent for Thai food. The wok-tossed Thai shrimp, hot basil, garlic, chilli and long bean concoction is dynamite for chilli lovers. The Thai curries are also full of personality. Succulent slivers of hammour and juicy cherry tomatoes swim in the velvety yellow fish curry; studded with fat, curly prawns, the silky shrimp panang curry is jammed with character.

Head back to Malaysia for dessert, because the pisan goreng – deep-fried bananas with green tea ice cream and brown sugar sauce – is a sweet sin that polishes off a gleaming overall experience.