Thai Chi

The concept of offering two restaurants under one roof is appealing; the practicalities of running Chinese and Thai together, are challenging 3 Reviews

© ITP Images

Ruan Thai, the old favourite in the Pyramids, has recently reopened its doors as two restaurants: one Chinese and one Thai. The concept of two restaurants under one roof is good but the practicalities are confusing.

Seated in either the formal Thai section or the less embellished Chinese area you are given the corresponding menu. You can mix and match your Peking duck and Pad Thai but you will need to ask to see both menus. The front-page blurb explains how these two cuisines should be ordered and eaten in different ways, so combining them does not always work.

We sat opposite the glass-fronted kitchen in the Chinese restaurant. For keen foodies this was fascinating and we didn’t mind the intermittent booming of fast moving woks, but this would not have been the table for a quiet intimate evening. Other corners of the bamboo, green and gold dining room are much quieter.

The Thai restaurant, with its elaborate décor and rich hues of burgundy and gold, was intimidating and more conducive to a formal evening than a chilled one. We liked the terrace over looking Wafi’s gardens best of all so get there early in May before the weather gets too hot to try it.

With our expectations heightened by the striking surroundings, our meal, chosen from both menus, was disappointing. My Peking duck, Thai Chi style, was tough and chewy — not even slightly crispy — and carelessly sliced so that there were big flabby chunks. We preferred the crispy shredded Szechuan beef, although this was a little chewy as well.

Our fried rice and the vegetables with crispy tofu lacked seasoning, we didn’t think Chinese chefs ever stinted on the MSG. We ended with a scoop of indifferent coconut ice cream, Thai style.

The service was attentive, polished and friendly. The idea of the restaurant is that you can pick a table according to your tastes and mood. There are certainly plenty of options: Thai or Chinese; indoors or outdoors; near the kitchen or away from it. It may take you a few visits to understand how different tables contribute to different types of evenings.

The food is not yet up to the standard we have come to expect from Wafi. This is, after all, home to two of Dubai’s finest restaurants: Medzo and Sphinx. We suspect it won’t be long before the quality improves and we’ll be back soon to give it another try.

• Previous reviews
  • 30 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
  • 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
  • 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
  • 30 April,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
  • 30 January,2006- reviewed by Matthew Lee
  • 01 July,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 July,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 August,2002- reviewed by Carolyn Robb

Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.