Caffè Florian in Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Caffè Florian

Large cafe with reasonable food at the trendy Gate Village 18 Reviews

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In Venice, Caffè Florian is an institution. It’s been in operation since 1720 and is undoubtedly one of the world’s oldest coffee houses if it’s not the oldest coffee house. Literature’s greatest players, including Goethe, Byron, Dickens and Proust, were all frequent visitors. In 1893, the coffee house became home to the Venice Biennale, an annual exhibition of some of the country’s most influential contemporary art. In other words it is a restaurant steeped in history. In Venice this, no doubt, contributes to the café’s appeal. So what does it mean when you rob such a venerable institution of its 300-year narrative? Can it still stand? This is the question the Dubai outlet faces.

Naturally, the DIFC location can’t rely on it’s prestigious background, because, well, it doesn’t have one here. Let’s face it, Dubai’s not a town that cares much about longevity. As a result, Caffe Florian has to work harder to capture the city’s attention, no easy feat when it’s seated next to the perennially packed Zuma, which this year has taken on the role of coolest kid on the block. Meanwhile, in the weeks since its opening, Caffe Florian has remained virtually empty while the crowds continue to spill out of Zuma. It’s a sad sight, especially given the breadth of Caffè Florian. The space spans two floors, and the decor smells like it cost money. A glorious purple metallic chandelier hangs from the ceiling, looking like some kind of mechanical squid, or perhaps a multi-limbed Bic pen; the walls boast custom-designed metal light fixtures and the purple crushed velvet chairs and booths are inviting and warm (and undoubtedly pricey). So why was I hearing crickets on the night I dropped in for a visit?

Honestly, I don’t know. The food here is very nice in parts. Mozzarella in my date’s caprese salad was dewy and fresh, even virginal. His pumpkin risotto was pleasantly thick, aided by the use of pureed pumpkin, which gave it a clotted frothiness. It was definitely the kind of dish you’d find in Italy, which is refreshing in Dubai, where too often risottos more closely resemble clumpy rice and cheese. The only pitfall was that the pumpkin flavour was so subtle it was barely detectable. Still, it was a respectable dish.

My orders were a bit more mixed. A selection of cicheti – Italy’s take on tapas – was wildly inconsistent. A slice of toast bearing a whipped dollop of salt cod was a gorgeous opener, its sultry, pungent flavour a shock when coupled with its airy texture. The same could not be said for a drab round of polenta topped with a handful of limp, slimy shrimp, lacking in flavour and ominous in texture. Each bite felt like little fingers clawing their way down my throat.

Things picked up slightly with my duck tagliatelle. It came with a dark, rich sauce that coated the tongue and lined the belly – a dish better suited to a balmy winter’s day than a humid, desert evening. Regardless, the chunks of duck that laced the dish were juicy and tender. Still, it was a large serving, and the type of dish that ultimately becomes tedious, with each bite tasting the same and no single ingredient calling out at any point.

Ultimately, though, it was the desserts that really stood out. Both puddings placed before us proved delightfully submissive, crumbling and creamy in all the right places. My date’s chocolate-caramel mousse could best be described as a creamy square of puffed toffee cream. As the restaurant, rather oddly, ran out of tiramisu, I settled for a fruit tart, which had a thin spread of whipped cream on top of a layer of custard. The result was an impossibly airy filling. But what really sold me on the restaurant was the bill: three courses and water for less than Dhs150 per person. By Dubai standards, it’s a great deal. And, while Caffe Florian may not exactly attract the city’s modern-day Byrons, it remains a decent place for a casual meal.

The bill (for two)
1x Acqua Panna water Dhs15
1x Cicheti collection Dhs32
1x Caprese Dhs32
1x Pumpkin risotto Dhs50
1x Tagliatelle with duck Dhs50
1x Chocolate mousse Dhs25
1x Fruit tart Dhs20
Service Dhs22.40
Total Dhs246.40