Churchill's

English theme bar with basic grub and entertainment Discuss this article

If you’re looking to recreate the days when you’d tootle down to the local pub known for great grub but terrible decor, (think signs bearing ‘ye olde’, railway tavern-style wooden exteriors and pastels), you’re in for a treat.

It’s not a restaurant – the menu is small, (and doubles up as a paper place mat), and it boasts nothing more innovative than soup, basic salad, the inevitable meat, fish ‘n’ chips, and a roast, (so don’t expect gastropub), but what they do prepare is simply and superbly cooked.

Steak is full-flavoured, tender and comes with a creamy but tangy béarnaise sauce, crispy, salty fries and a good leafy salad. The roast, which sadly loses its traditional roast potatoes for fries, is moist with a fine gravy and perfectly cooked vegetables. If there’s room for dessert, go for traditional apple pie with generous chunks of fruit, a touch of spice and a real home-cooked taste. This wins over the less reliable crème brûlée.

Big wooden plates are a nice, earthy touch, but it’s a shame the light from the bright kitchen doesn’t extend to the pub itself. Big game nights will inject a little atmosphere when it tends to get busier because there are multiple screens.

• Previous reviews
  • 01 July,2002- reviewed by Carolyn Robb

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