Al Nafoorah in Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Al Nafoorah

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Until the food arrived – eight superior portions of mezze, followed by a never-ending sequence of complimentary desserts – we had been distinctly unimpressed by the Nafoorah vibe. The venue has been synthetically tacked on to a shopping mall, and the atmosphere wasn’t too cheery on our arrival; a particularly dreary selection of Arabic music created a staid mood.

And then the feast commenced. Fluffy square cuts of flat bread soaked up a gorgeously piquant baba ganoush, with parsley, onion, tomatoes and mint and perked up by shiny red pops of pomegranate.

With scattered pine nuts and a lacing of cumin, the house special hummos was splendidly creamy. The spinach fatayer had slightly-too-doughy parcels but warm herbal fillings, and the cracked wheat shell of the fried lamb kebbe – with a juicy, pine-nut stuffing – was pleasantly mellow. Meanwhile, a splendid-looking fresh artichoke was merrily deflowered as we raced to its meaty heart, and puréed roast potatoes were proficiently tanged by threads of rosemary. The marinaded beef shawarma was particularly toothsome enjoyed with onions and pickled cucumbers in pitta bread, and the akawi cheese rukake, the final member of the mezze mélange, had a distinctly strong taste and resembled a Lebanese spring roll.

The desserts were impeccable and arrived in unreasonably large quantities. A volcanically-charged fountain, generating a misty scurry of tumbling dry ice, came with a tray of juicy dates and an expertly rich crème caramel at its base. This striking ornament was sandwiched between twin towers of pudding, each three storeys high. The healthier construction featured fresh fruit, but the other monument, a soaring steeple of sugar, involved dangerously alluring chunks of calorific Turkish delight – of a lip-licking sweetness and rose-tinted viscidity. Even better, despite their ominous purple glow, the glazed pumpkin pieces boasted a delicious glacé cherry-esque sweetness, and the figs drizzled in honey were syrup-drippingly good. Finally, the thick Lebanese cream tasted marvellous crunchily entwined with honey, pistachios and pine nuts.

By the time we shuffled off home the place was jam-packed, with a lively atmosphere. However, you should not start your Nafoorah meal too late in the evening. We’re heard reports of people being hurried towards the exit near closing time and missing out on the freebie puddings.

Al Nafoorah remains one of the finest Lebanese restaurants in town. Be prepared to indulge your sweet tooth, and get stuck in to this impressive dining experience.

By Matthew Lee