Al Nafoorah in Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Al Nafoorah

Nestled at the base of Dubai’s soon-to-be-eclipsed tallest building, this popular Lebanese restaurant suffers no such complex of inferiority Discuss this article

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Approaching the foot of the looming Emirates Towers, I looked up. As floor after floor of gleaming glass, metal and concrete receded into an azure sky far above me, my significance started to take a bashing. And I went momentarily dizzy. So, before I stumbled blindly, and painfully, into the glass wall at the mall’s entrance, and collapsed in an inconsequential heap on the floor, I composed myself and steadily made my way inside to Al Nafoorah.

Nestled at the base of Dubai’s soon-to-be-eclipsed tallest building, this popular Lebanese restaurant suffers no such complex of inferiority. It welcomes steady streams of discerning Arabic cuisine lovers through its elegant doors, whatever might be lurching overhead. On our visit, there was a respectable gathering of diners despite the lateness of our booking, and we joined them among the cool contours and classic lines of this understated eatery. A graceful silver stand offered a civilised preamble into olive territory before plates of puffed and warm breads arrived at our table. And many more plates were to follow.

First came the light, almost fluffy, Nafoorah hummos, which was dive-bombed by squadrons of folded flatbread at the earliest available opportunity, and was adroitly backed up by a busy baba ganoush with aubergine, tomatoes, onion and fragrant herbs. We were soon distracted by the lipstick-pink mound of kibbeh Nafoorah – a thick carpet of minced raw lamb with ground bulgar wheat – which was moist and creamy in texture, and quickly establishing itself as the highlight among the mezze. So much so, in fact, that it was eagerly swept away with more bread, and a similar but spicier plate of kibbeh orfaly had to be ordered to compensate.

It was time for the hot dishes to swoop down in swirling, fragrant plumes. The grilled hammour was beautifully moist and tender, soaked as it was in its lemony juices, but it lacked something of its natural fish flavour. The kebab kheshkash – little more than three strips of minced lamb that had been shaped around skewers and grilled – were pleasant but hardly outstanding. However, the hot kibbeh were wonderfully crunchy on the outside and opened to a dancing show of succulent meaty granules and vegetable nuggets. They sat comfortably beside a vibrant fattoush salad and a showy boiled artichoke, which got softer and tastier the closer we got to its heart. Well, don’t we all?

There’s no reason to doubt the people at Al Nafoorah. They can be relied upon to produce good, and occasionally great, Lebanese food in the stately surroundings of the charming restaurant, or alternatively on the beautiful al fresco terrace in the long shadow of the skyscrapers above. Which is why you should look them up some time.

The bill (for two)
Mineral water Dhs12
Kebab kheshkash Dhs37
Kibbeh Dhs20
Grilled hammour Dhs55
Nafoorah hummos Dhs25
Baba ganoush Dhs20
Boiled artichoke Dhs20
Kibbeh Nafoorah Dhs30
Fattoush Dhs20
Kibbeh orfaly Dhs30
Total (including service) Dhs269