Mirai in Souk Al Bahar, Downtown Burj Dubai, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Mirai

Glitzy new Japanese is one of the best in Dubai 10 Reviews

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Does Dubai have a saturation point for glitzy, contemporary Japanese restaurants? Mirai was the sixth such venture to open in the last 12 months, and I was starting to wonder if perhaps the genre was getting a little tired. Judging by the empty spaces surrounding the few filled tables, it struck me that Dubai’s diners were finding it similarly difficult to muster excitement for a concept so seemingly weary. But they should, because Mirai is easily the best of the bunch and, shockingly, is genuinely offering something quite new.

The interior, as has come to be expected of noveau Japanese restaurants, is impeccable and the very definition of charm. The ceiling boasts oblong paper lanterns bearing a fish motif in the style of ancient Japanese calligraphy and weathered black and white photographs hang on the walls, giving the place a sense of history (who cares if it’s just a visual trick?. The menu is notable for what it lacks. Missing are the ever-popular tempura dishes, and miso black cod is, thankfully, nowhere in sight. This is a sign that, despite its theme, Mirai doesn’t want to blend in with every other Japanese restaurant in town. Instead, it presents signature dishes that are unique and breathtakingly delicious in their own right.

I was bowled over by the unagi, which was basted in a balsamic glaze and layered on top of a soft slice of baked apple and a delicate sliver of foie gras. As I write, just thinking about the silken textures and sleek contours, and the trio’s seductive combination, is enough to let an accidental moan escape my lips.

The meal was bound to be a letdown after such a build-up, and yet it wasn’t. Two pieces of semi- fatty tuna were almost worth the extravagant price tag. The flesh smelled as fresh as the sea, and as soon as my tongue met the gentle slab, it teasingly evaporated. Even the dubious-sounding sumo extreme maki roll – a piscine mish-mash with mango slices – proved dainty and well-conceived, a rarity when several types of fish are thrown together in one roll.

But these items were mere precursors to the meal’s second peak, which came in the form of slow-cooked short ribs. The beef came in a sweet ginger and soy broth, and was so supernaturally tender, I could have easily finished it off with a spoon.

Surprisingly, the one let down in the meal came in the form of the item that most set the restaurant apart. Mirai had swapped the now-ubiquitous miso cod with miso sea bass, a much firmer, flakier fish that did not take well to the subtlety of the marinade. Where Nobu’s cod has a sweet, musty, almost mysterious taste, Mirai’s seabass was just plainly bland, and disappointing.

Desserts, which were creative but not over-complicated, restored some glory to the meal. Puffed soba noodles with buckwheat ice cream was paired with burnt ginger rice pudding and a slice of caramelised banana. The ingredients worked together so effortlessly that it was easy to forget how many elements the pudding had holding it together. Equally tantalising was the chocolate hurumaki, pinky-sized portions of chocolate spring rolls stuffed with fried shiso leaves, a Japanese edible plant that tastes somewhat of basil and nettle. These were accompanied by a cool jasmine dipping sauce and a small scoop of creamy coconut ice cream, a combination that was as refreshing for its innovation as for its floral undertones.

Mirai is a success on many fronts. It is cheerful, it is fresh, and it is striving hard to bring something new to a culinary concept that is very much on the verge of proving tired. And while it has so much to offer in the front of house – from its bright decor to its knowledgeable waiting staff – it’s true talents rest in the kitchen, where a team of chefs make food so good, it almost defies decency.

The bill (for two)
1x Large still water Dhs30
1x Chutoro nigiri Dhs50
1x Sumo maki Dhs60
1x Unagi Kabayaki Dhs85
1x Beef ribs Dhs140
1x Chilean sea bass Dhs135
1x Harumaki Dhs45
1x Puffed soba Dhs35
Total (including service) Dhs580