Time Out Says
Surly staff and an ambience with all the spirit of a particularly uneventful séance both conspire to make Al Mawal a rather unappealing dining destination. Waiters veer between being blatantly rude and gnawingly obsequious, with little in the way of a middle ground, while the cavernous dining space does nothing to enhance an atmosphere than can be positively eerie on nights when there is no live music.
These are major detractions that even the best food would struggle to redress, which is something of a shame because there are pockets of excellence lurking on the menu. You’ll find few better ways of feeding the soul than to dunk endless baskets of soft warm bread into garlic and mint labneh, while a country cheese salad consists of generous lumps of feta tossed in a fresh salad mix.
The mixed grill is a bit of a curate’s egg, with the good work done by melting chunks of tender lamb undone by chewy chicken. Worse is the hammour, which loses out by dint of being crushingly average.
By Jeremy Lawrence | 26 Mar 2008
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