Al Muntaha

From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2011

To journey is often better than to arrive, so the saying goes, and that pretty much sums up Al Muntaha. Located on the 27th floor of Burj Al Arab, serving fine European cuisine in impressive surroundings, it should be a highlight of any Dubai trip. The hotel welcome, glass-lift ascent to the restaurant and bizarre Star Trek-ish entrance all promise something special, but it’s all a little underwhelming. The view, stunning during the day, disappears at night, unless you can bag a table overlooking the glittering Palm and Marina. If hushed chat and clinking cutlery is your idea of atmosphere, go on a Monday, otherwise make visit Tuesday to Sunday when the piano adds an elegant touch.

The menu was staggering – not in variety but in its astronomical prices (although, to be fair, diners are warned when making a reservation that they should expect to pay at least Dhs500 per person). Appetisers featured shellfish, foie gras and beetroot carpaccio, while the highlight of the mains was definitely the signature wagyu beef – seared to perfection. Quirky dishes (pigeon breast crumble anyone?) mingled with the more commonplace lamb loin and corn-fed chicken. For desserts, think soufflés, parfait and a deliciously oozing chocolate fondant paired with tonka bean ice cream. There’s nothing inherently wrong with Al Muntaha: it’s all perfectly adequate, but the exorbitant cost can leave a nasty aftertaste.