Time Out Says
And it’s a lot to take in. Not just because it’s set over three floors – the space is crammed with plants, a labyrinth of cosy nooks and an open kitchen that runs the back length of the middle floor. You’ll need to make more than a single visit to fully absorb your surroundings.
But should you? It really depends. This neighbourhood is home to far more than a handful of Dubai’s best restaurants. While the food isn’t city-beating, certainly in the area there’s little competition left when it comes to Latin America cuisine.
And if that’s what you’re here for (in addition to one of the splashiest settings in town), you won’t leave disappointed.
Amazónico’s array of raw and marinated fish dishes put on a good start – the aguachile red snapper ceviche is a particular highlight, served with avocado cream and warming jalapeño.
From the ‘bites’ section of the menu, guacamole with sea urchin sounds like the kind of pairing we’ve waited a long time for, so it’s a disappointment to find the dish lacks any distinct flavour from that spiniest (and creamiest) of seafoods.
Chimichurri-marinated skirt steak comes highly recommended, but while the steak itself has plenty of flavour, we struggle to detect much of the typically a punchy marinade.
It’s the same story with a side of queso grillado on the chimichurri front, but in this case we hardly notice. This is literally – literally – a pot of inch-deep Josper-grilled provolone cheese. Your doc may not thank you, but you certainly will.
Amazónico certainly serves up plenty of flair and flamboyance, and the mixology is a clear hit with the crowds in the lounge. As for the food? Fun, sure, but largely just fine.
11 May 2020
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