Time Out Says
Like certain other Turkish steakhouses in the city, Gürkan Şef is resolutely for the former of those two breeds.
It’s an impressive setting – tables assembled from huge slabs of wood and wrought iron speak volumes of the investment it’s taken to bring the restaurant to life (which prices do reflect). Inside, there’s a meat counter displaying enormous tomahawks, while outdoors, tables on the Green Planet-facing sidewalk boast surprisingly brilliant Burj Khalifa views. And while it may not be right at the heart of City Walk, the entertainment and plumes of smoke accompanying each dish seem to have the desired effect of drawing in curious passers-by.
Service, it must be said, is showstoppingly good. Staff exude genuine warmth and pride in both the venue and food coming out of the kitchen.
And it’s all good enough. An order of beef tartare makes a ceremonious arrival on a large wooden trolley, escorted by a waistcoated member of staff wielding an enormous curved scimitar. Following no small amount of mincing, it’s smeared onto individual rounds of bread and finally presented to the table, the presence of finely chopped mint adding a welcome flash of freshness to each bite.
Mains arrive mere minutes later, and while we watch a nearby table of diners disappear behind a fog of dry ice and fireworks – literally – we tuck into thin strips of spaghetti-style rib-eye and the restaurant’s “special” burger, grateful to have received them without a side of barbershop quartet.
It’s all enjoyable enough, but the overall experience feels more about the performance than what’s on the plate. Whether or not you’ll find it worth it depends entirely on where you’ve planted your flag.
WHAT IS IT...
Another Turkish steakhouse with tableside theatre
For meat, sparklers and scene-stealing waiters
By Time Out Dubai staff | 30 Oct 2018
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