Cuisinero Uno

New Business Bay restaurant serves creative tapas-style dishes, but needs fine-tuning in some areas
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Time Out Says

Cuisinero Uno threw open its doors in the summer, headed up by 32-year-old John Buenaventura – former finalist in Time Out Dubai’s Young Chef of the Year contest and previously chef de cuisine at Seafire at Atlantis The Palm. With this in mind, it’s with considerable expectation that we head here to dine.

We visit midweek and are surprised to find the place empty, bar one other table. Although it’s terrace weather, we choose to eat indoors, as the urban eatery has industrial-style décor and a cool vibe.

The compact menu is based on Emirati, Mediterranean and Asian-inspired tapas dishes, designed to share. All are under Dhs55, so it’s a top spot to try out a variety of new things without doing some serious damage to your wallet.

We kick off with the intriguing “fake” carpaccio. Watermelon strips are marinated and served with crème fraiche, pine nuts and tarragon. It’s an acquired taste – the fruit is meaty, living up to the dish’s name – but it’s an inventive option for Dubai’s growing army of vegan diners.

Next up is a tuna tartare so overwhelmingly oniony that we can only bear one mouthful.

A beef slider has an unusual curry twist.

The winners for us are both the shrimp taco, which is well-balanced, tasty and boasts juicy prawns paired with crisp slaw; and a bowl of patatas bravas. The latter is unlike any version we’ve encountered before, but we love the soupy, rich tomato sauce that chunks of potato swim in. There are a few tasty green peas thrown in for good measure – a patatas-bravas-meets-minestrone, if you will.

We really want to love Buenaventure’s brave debut, but on this visit it just falls short in terms of vibe and some dishes. With a few tweaks we hope it can live up to the hype and draw in more diners.

The bill (for two)
1x fake carpaccio Dhs38
1x yellow fin tartare Dhs44
1x slider Dhs34
1x patatas bravas Dhs29
1x shrimp tacos Dhs26
1x large water Dhs29
Total (incl service) Dhs200

The bottom

line Interesting dishes but we’re not wowed.

By Time Out Dubai staff  | 20 Dec 2017

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Details

11:00 AM to 2:00 AM
Thursday: 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM / 11:00 AM to 2:00 AM
Show number 04 431 7816
Dubai, Business Bay, Business Bay - Dubai - United Arab Emirates
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