Da Gama Restaurant
Time Out Says
Shall we go down that much-travelled path with Da Gama, and resort to such tired old clichés as ‘culinary exploration’ and ‘gastronomic voyage of discovery’? No, let’s not, because if we head in that direction, this wayward Portuguese restaurant is bound to drag us off course. In truth this place is about as Portuguese as the Queen of Spain.
Instead of a menu festooned with delicacies from the Algarve, or traditional recipes from central Alentejo, you’re treated to the questionable delights of Tex-Mex food and even Italian. Having said that, the rollito gambas jamon – modestly sized prawns wrapped in turkey bacon – are a juicy and smoky way to start, but there’s only three of them.
The bacalhau à bras is a disappointing version of the traditional Portuguese recipe that should involve scrambled eggs, cod and chunks of potato. Sadly the potato is absent, and we suspect that the bacalhau or cod in question is indeed hammour.
Luckily the eggs are light and fluffy, and there are plenty of french fries to keep you occupied. Then there’s the particularly un-Portuguese fajitas de carne, which arrive at the table sizzling on the plate, and mountainous with a tricolour of guacamole, salsa and sour cream.
They aren’t bad. Inside, the restaurant is all white plaster and dark wooden finishes, and quite pleasant it is too, but when your meal is done with you’ll be probably be eager to reach for the door.
By Jeremy Lawrence | 26 Mar 2008
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