Enigma opened with a truly unique idea. The head chef would change every three months, each one would be one of the world’s top 50, and each would overhaul the dining room, as well as the menu. First was Quique Dacosta, a Spaniard with a penchant for dramatic presentation. He was followed by Swedish chef Björn Frantzén, a pioneer of minimalist, Nordic cuisine. Now, there is Yunus Emre Aydin, who has been given a longer reign in the kitchen. He isn’t one of the world’s top 50 but the restaurant has found its most consistent performer yet. It’s a cosy venue, staff are also more laid-back than you might expect for the lofty destination and prices are reasonable given the setting and quality. We start with mezze. Hot fresh bread is perfect with the excellent dips. Of the hot starters, the octopus is perhaps the best in the city. Slow-cooked then charred, it comes with avocado mousse and crisp leaves. It’s sublime. Grilled anchovies are sandwiched between thin slices of bread and fried, served with a fennel salad. It’s salty, greasy and refreshing. Mains stand on the merits of the amazing meat. The lamb neck, slow-cooked and spiced is tender and tasty, while the hearty beef cheek is a rich hunk of deliciousness.
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