Mediterranean cuisine is known for its strong, clean flavours – so we can’t wait to try Levee.
The La Mer eatery promises to fuse the region’s scents and colours with traditional French gastronomy to create “simple yet delicious” dishes.
Inside the beachfront café-lounge, the décor is chic and trendy – with metal chairs nestled under long tables and a sofa corner evoking the European social eating vibe.
But the food doesn’t quite hold up. The bread is coated in so much salt we feel like we’ve swallowed sea water – yet when the main course arrives, it’s completely underseasoned.
Rather than being rich and flavourful, the tagliatelle is drowning in a beige gloop that claims to be truffle sauce.
The pasta is handmade, but the strands are so long and wide that the dish is almost impossible to eat. Finishing it becomes a food challenge.
But in a meal of contrasting results, the dessert is the thing that Levee gets right. The Eton mess features a cloud of candy floss and it’s a treat for both the eyes and the tastebuds, with a summer berry coulis offering a tangy twist on the traditional dessert.
As an eatery, Levee is almost worth its salt. It just needs to add a bit more to the tagliatelle.
The bottom line
Could do with more seasoning.