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This American steakhouse had us conjuring images of disablingly large food portions, everyman prices and an obligatory moose head leering at us from the corner

This American steakhouse had us conjuring images of disablingly large food portions, everyman prices and an obligatory moose head leering at us from the corner. However, this two-floor restaurant isn’t the hotbed of overbearing Americana we expected. Instead we found wooden floorboards, black and white framed prints, stone feature walls and dark timber furnishings.

The mocktails were excellent. My banana strawberry freeze was deliciously flavoured with coconut and topped with whipped cream while my friend opted for a refreshing blend of cranberry and orange juices. But an overpowering and sharp vinegary marinade smothered our shared buffalo wing starter while its blue cheese dipping sauce intrigued more than it enticed – pieces of what resembled cheese were visible but it tasted of an overly sweet mayonnaise instead.

With bemusing efficiency, the mains were served within seconds of the starters being finished. My friend, head still spinning from the near-acrobatic swapping of plates, carved into his perfectly cooked New York steak. The accompanying mashed potato was a nicely formed scoop topped with cheese, beef bacon and chives, but the fried garlic green beans were tough and tasted bitter from the overcooked browned garlic. I too suffered from side order syndrome. My Roma rack ribs were meaty and extremely tender but this considerable success was undermined by an overcooked, dried out baked potato.

Surprised we were ordering desserts, our friendly waitress stressed that my skillet cookie sundae would take precisely 13 minutes. The resulting cake, served in a cast-iron pan, was a portion of chewy but tasty chocolate dough. My friend’s apple crisp, also served with large scoops of vanilla ice cream, was a decent sized home-style crumble and was pleasant enough, if slightly too sweet. Although the quality of our meal veered from excellent to painfully mediocre – there was consolation in the messages of thanks, complete with love hearts and smiley faces, which appeared on our bill.

The bill (for two)
Red hot buffalo wings Dhs32
Roma rack beef ribs Dhs63
New York steak Dhs67
Skillet cookie sundae Dhs29
Apple crisp Dhs25
Cranberry cooler Dhs15
Banana strawberry freeze Dhs15
Total (including service) Dhs246


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