It’s the quiet, unremarkable way in which iZ goes about its business that is its standout feature. Tucked into the corner of one of the most ostentatious hotel lobbies in town, it boasts a subtlety and style that make it a terrific spot for some high-end dining without the faff of the emirate’s trailblazing Indian restaurants. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you want. For all that, there is still a sparkle, quite literally at times. It comes from the show kitchen in the middle of this network of nooks and crannies (iZ has done well in making the restaurant feel cosy without being crowded in what is an awkward shaped space across numerous little levels). Here, chefs operate several grills and hot plates, as well as a sunken traditional tandoor oven, from which sparks can fly as meat and fish are flashed in and out of the burning hot core. The majority of the menu is made up of these dishes, so it’s not surprise they take great pride in the whole process. Anything swimming in juice, however, is for most underwhelming. Over-compensation appears to be the habit of kitchen staff without access to the theatre out front, which is a shame because the rest works well without trying too hard.
iZ, Oud Metha
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