Doner Kebab

German take on the Turkish classic does what it sets out to do
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Time Out Says

Deeming myself as something of an honorary Berlinerin after a kebab- fuelled year spent in the German capital, I can reveal I’ve been lying in wait for the unimaginatively named Doner Kebab to open its doors since I spotted the ‘coming soon’ hoardings in JLT well over a year ago. Why, you may be wondering, especially in a kebab-littered spot such as Dubai?

Not only is the prime concept at Berlin-centric Doner Kebab to offer ‘German-style’ kebabs, but thanks to the large Turkish community in the country, Germany has not only taken the doner kebab to its heart, but it is also far superior to the UK’s soggy late night equivalent. There is even a Berlin school of thought that ardently argues that the doner kebab was actually invented in their city.

Make of that what you will, but I still had to test Doner Kebab’s Teutonic value out for myself. I was met with a pleasant spot, complete with outdoor seating on the lakeside JLT promenade and a standard but neat looking fast-food restaurant decked in black and orange inside. Placemats with black and white images of Berlin looking brooding in addition to the poster declaring ‘kaffee and kuchen’ (German institution of coffee and cake) is served at 4pm put me in the right mood.

We took the menus to the service counter to order, where we were helped by a server with switched-on and polite service skills. In addition to durum doner, the menu offered doner kebabs stuffed with chicken, beef (strangely not lamb) or a mix of the two. We opted for a doner kebab meal each (one with beef, one with a mix), which came with chips and a soft drink. Unfortunately, the lahmacun on the menu would not be available until a machine from Germany had arrived, so we took the suggestion of kartoffel salat (German potato salad) instead.

The food arrived swiftly, the kebabs looked promisingly ‘proper’ and it was as good a Berlin-kebab as I’d find in Dubai. The triangular pouches of bread were nicely crisp yet still slightly soft inside and the sandwich was nicely crammed with fresh, crunchy cabbage, lettuce and also tomato as it should be. It was a little drippy and greasy and messy, but not too much and the slices of meat were also decent, although the beef lacked that juicy edge that lamb has. Within the intensely creamy, buttery and yet fluffy kartoffel salat (with a fresh and sour touch of gerkin), I could taste how deliciously laden with fat it was, making it just as tasty as it was thoroughly German. Not to everyone’s ‘geschmack’, or ideal of authentic, but Doner Kebab does what it sets out to do.

The bill (for two)
2x doner kebab meal Dhs78
1x kartoffel salat Dhs20
Total (excluding service) Dhs98

By Time Out Dubai staff  | 20 Aug 2013

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Dubai, Jumeirah Lakes Towers (JLT), Cluster W- Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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