Bombay Brasserie brunch review

Time Out Dubai is your guide to the best brunches in Dubai. Here we have a Bombay Brasserie brunch review, held on Friday at Taj Dubai, Business Bay


We arrive at Bombay Brasserie’s Friday brunch to find no one else in the lavishly decorated, vibrantly hued restaurant.

As we’re seated at a table of our choice – by the open kitchen with its tandoor grill or in a comfortable, colourful booth by the window overlooking Business Bay – we’re presented with a bowl of small, crispy cumin poppadoms, a dip of mashed ginger and rhubarb and another of shredded papaya marmalade.

We pile it all on together and take a bite. It’s textural and flavourful, sweet, tart and spicy – a real taste of modern Indian street food.

In the same vein as chefs Vineet Bhatia, Sanjeev Kapoor and Atul Kochhar, and restaurants like Rang Mahal, Ashiana and Tresind, chef Jitin Joshi has managed to prove, yet again, and with just a single morsel, that there is no limit to what can be achieved with Indian cuisine in our landscape of cutting edge, contemporary gastronomy.

Then comes the pani puri, a common street food across India. This hollow, round fried crisp (the puri) is filled with a medley of flavours from sweet and tangy tamarind chutney to mildly hot chilli and vibrant spices, all topped with yoghurt and mint-coriander chutney, and perched on a small glass filled with tangy water (that’s the pani).

We pour it onto one parcel and take another reaffirming bite.

Our afternoon continues in this fashion. There are now only two other tables taken, but we barely even notice anymore as chef Joshi takes us on his journey through India.

The dishes are brought to the table one after the other. The waiter asks, with each course, whether we’re ready or if we need some more time to digest – it’s leisurely and lovely.

Out comes a divine Malabar salad (Malabar is where you find the best crabs in India) of fried soft-shell crab, followed by a delicate, flaky mustard seabass buried under a prawn, rubbed with bold spices and chargrilled to perfection.

Then there’s a lamb kebab, chicken tikka masala, coconut prawn curry… The dishes keep coming and although we’re almost full to bursting, we can’t stop dipping in, eagerly anticipating the next course. And the one after.

Each round is a bit of a mystery until the exquisitely presented plates arrive in front of us, and our knowledgeable server explains in detail the dish’s raft of ingredients and its origins.

Meanwhile, a large bar is set up with an array of bottles. The brunch drinks package comes with hops, grape and mixed beverages that are just as impressive as the food, emphasising the venue’s unwavering attention to every detail.

Detail that even sees them stew tomatoes in 32 spices for 21 days, just so they can whip together a refreshing, unique mixed drink.

The meal finishes on a fittingly high note – a platter of classic Indian desserts. But there’s no such thing as “staple” here. Instead, there’s a sweet, sticky jalabi with condensed milk and edible silver strewn across, next to a delicious gulab jamun topped with edible gold, and a reduced milk pudding infused with saffron. Our favourite is a typical rice pudding that has instead been made with quinoa and taken to another level with shreds of orange. It’s modern, beautiful, delicious and refreshing. Just like this brunch.

The bottom line Incredible food, a great selection of drinks, friendly staff and a lovely setting. Now they just need people to serve.

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