We’re almost alone in Jean-Georges, with just two other people in the whole restaurant. It doesn’t really matter though, as the lovely, light restaurant still has a nice atmosphere despite the lack of fellow diners. As you might expect, it also means that service is attentive.
The packages are explained, and seem to be good value for a restaurant with the reputation of Jean-Georges. It’s à la carte (which we’re more fond of than buffet right now). A septet of starters are brought out to share, we choose a main course from a list of seven, then a selection of desserts round off the afternoon.
Mixed drink and mocktail choices are a little more classy than those on your average brunch menu, but having only one hops option is disappointing (even if it is a reassuringly expensive choice). White and red grape is also available.
The starters arrive at a nice pace, giving us time to enjoy them individually rather than feeling rushed into wolfing them down.
The freshly baked bread is brilliantly chewy and the peppery olive oil is clearly high quality. We love it when the simple things are done as well as this.
Watermelon and feta is another simple combination, but it’s a classic for a reason and it doesn’t disappoint here. Neither does the crispy ocean trout sushi, but getting it twice (slightly different both times) is a little confusing. So is being told that the calamari comes “compliments of the chef” – strange given that it’s part of the package.
The burrata could be creamier, but the lemon jam it comes with is an inspired choice. And some of that gorgeous bread is back with it, this time toasted.
A delicious black truffle and fontina pizza is close to pushing us over the edge (or at least our belts are heading that way), but we’re given some time before the main courses arrive.
The quality seems to suffer from here on, with the eggs Benedict and roasted cod dishes lacking any sparkle.
It’s a similar story with dessert. Neither the salted caramel ice-cream or blueberry cheesecake wow.
We’re left wondering how the myriad starters can outshine the mains so much, especially with a quiet dining room (more people have turned up, but we’re talking less than ten covers). It takes the shine off what has otherwise been a lovely experience.
Dhs295 (soft drinks), Dhs395 (house beverages), Dhs495 (bubbly). Fri noon-4pm. Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Jumeirah Beach Road (04 343 6118).
The bottom line
A brunch of two halves. If only everything was as good as the starters.
JG brunch at Jean-Georges Dubai review
Time Out has the latest JG brunch review. Find out about brunch at Four Seasons and Jean-Georges Dubai, one of the most popular restaurants in town