The Restaurant at the Address Boulevard is a home away from home – if you’re royalty, anyway. The concept is based around that of the residence, and judging from the library, the music room and the dressing room, we’re talking an abode of the upper echelons.
Somehow we make the cut and take an excited totter over gleaming marble floors to the dining room, which is all soft furnishings, stacks of pillows and big rugs that you could never fit in your own home (or probably afford).
The restaurant is light and airy, with huge windows looking out onto the Burj Khalifa and lovely hotel gardens. A traditional French band create an authentic ambience and shelving displaying vases and trinkets lend themselves to the elegant-yet-homely feel. The restaurant is pleasantly busy, without people tripping over each other, and we are pleased to learn that the food will be served to our table.
The sophisticated brunch is inspired by the French Riviera and we feel suitably fancy when we are presented with seasonal young vegetable crudité with kalamata olive and sundried tomato tapenade and a selection of breads.
The olive focaccia is warm and salty and we chow down in a way unbefitting of Mademoiselles.
Next up are the entrèes, which are all light, fresh and delicious. We particularly enjoy the salad niçoise with seared yellowfin tuna and the bread tartine with beef tartare. The red prawn and scallop crudo is also pretty special, and when friendly waiters arrive with oysters we are more than happy to delve in. Entrèe plates are unlimited and you can reorder as many as you like, but we are already eyeing up the next round on the menu, where a slow-cooked Angus beef short rib has caught our eye.
The meat arrives with creamy polenta and a smoked thyme jus and is tender and flavour-packed. We are also served up a fregula with porcini mushroom sauce, which goes down with exclamations of “ooh la la”.
A seafood lasagne with rouget and lobster bisque is nice but regrettably goes largely untouched in favour of the rather filling (but extremely moreish) polenta.
We do, of course, leave room for dessert, which is laid out on a buffet platter, and includes everything from refreshing and sweet strawberry tart and indulgent chocolate cake, to a stack of fresh doughnuts and a rather impressive mound of jelly beans.
Four o’clock rolls around way faster than we would have liked, but we are happy to move the soirée into the garden where we lazily finish our drinks in a well-fed post-brunch haze.
The afternoon has been an ultimate flight of French fancy and we regret having to say aur revoir so soon.
Dhs325 (soft drinks) Dhs425 (house beverages) Dhs525 (bubbly). Friday 12.30pm-4pm, Address Boulevard, Downtown Dubai (04 888 3444).
The bottom line
Excellent French food in sophisticated surroundings.