The entrance to Fümé, with its paradoxical mishmash of the arty and the industrial, has always been an aesthetic hit. And on a Friday between the hours of noon and 4pm, it also calls out to your wallet, too – a siren song to those lost souls on the lookout for a quality brunch at a tasty price.
It’s a very appealing Dhs199. Yes, there are cheaper brunches in the city, but you tend to find them off the Sheikh Zayed Road somewhere, in a pub boasting live sports and sticky carpets, not nibbling on an immaculate lamb cutlet while gazing out at the fine views from Dubai Marina’s Pier 7.
We arrive with doubts as to the quality of menu regulars our sub-two-hundred smackers will buy us.
Starters are an odd combo of a bowl of edamame, some buttermilk fried chicken, a platter of calamari with a cute, pink, sweet chilli sauce and almond flakes, and feta and watermelon salad. Cumulatively this strange marriage is discombobulating.
Individually, though, with the exception of the edamame, which feel like they’re there just to make up the numbers, they’re all good. The same goes for the puds, an incongruous smorgasboard of everything from decent crème brûlée to mini-éclairs and petite apple tarts.
It’s the main courses that bring the harmony, and the heartiness. They arrive after a selection of sourdough sarnies – some great, like the salmon one; some less so, like the one packed with halloumi so rubbery it could probably be used in motorsport.
Mini Angus beef burgers, though, are magnificently juicy, while the substantial side dishes of meatballs with parmigiana and pappardelle, and the baked mac ’n’ cheese are superbly rich and unctuous. Throw in that aforementioned delightful arrangement of lamb cutlets, seared perfectly pink and glistening in a sticky-sweet glaze, and the effect is a palpitations-rich selection of flavours that just plain sing.
All of this is re-orderable as many times as you fancy (although you might not need to) and a good selection of mixed drinks on top of the standard house staples, and Fümé’s Friday affair is one that should go the distance.
Dhs199 (house beverages). Fri noon-4pm. Pier 7, Dubai Marina (04 421 5669).
The bottom line
Good food at an excellent price.