After a year out of the game, this once award-winning Friday brunch has finally returned to the banks of Dubai Creek after a huge facelift.
And what a number they’ve done on this grand old lady of Dubai’s brunching scene.
Now part of Park Hyatt Dubai’s new The Promenade, made up of Brasserie du Park (formerly Traiteur restaurant), casual-yet-stylish eatery NOÉPE (formerly The Terrace) and bar seventyseventy (above Traiteur, and formerly an extension of the French restaurant), this Friday affair has retained everything that made it a winner in the first place.
Guests can still meander through the open kitchens and choose their dishes, load up on meat from the roasting spit or pile their plates high with freshly shucked oysters and lobster – so far, so Traiteur.
The real difference is the change in décor, now all beachy blues and turquoises, offset by woven furniture, billowing sheets of linen and the odd marine-inspired ornament (including something that looks a lot like a whale’s vertebrae).
This is, without a doubt, one of the most idyllic Friday brunch settings in the entire city. But, for the price, it certainly should be – for this is also one of the most expensive brunches you’re likely to find across the emirate. With that (and the fact this is a previous winner of Time Out Dubai’s Best Brunch award) in mind, expectations are high.
While a trio of musicians play low-fi covers of tracks such as Killing Me Softly (a bit downbeat, if we’re honest) with acoustic guitars, hand drums and tambourines (better), we get stuck into the variety of cold seafood displayed inside NOÉPE, slurping up sashimi, greedily shelling perfectly cooked prawns and dipping meaty lobster claws into a Marie-Rose sauce. It’s all beautifully fresh, and absolutely abundant.
After a pause in the sunshine, we head indoors to case the kitchen spread. Winding around chefs cooking up eggs Benedict and carving joints of meat (including a superb beef tenderloin), we make it our mission to sample a bit of everything – and absolutely nothing disappoints. (Though our hearts are well and truly stolen by the incredible array of charcuterie and cheeses, and the almost regal room set aside exclusively for dessert).
It’s an almost perfect day. Throughout the entire afternoon, the only thing we struggle with – and we struggle repeatedly – is service.
From being utterly clueless about the packages are to forgetting orders, staff are nowhere near as well-drilled as at rival high-end brunches. And at this price, they need to be the best.
Once the team has navigated those waters, however, Traiteur Brunch could once again be a tough ship to outrun.
Dhs495 (soft drinks), Dhs695 (house beverages), Dhs795 (bubbly), Dhs895 (premium bubbly). Fri 1pm-4.30pm. The Promenade, Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira (04 602 1814).
The bottom line
An almost flawless feast by the Creek.