Galvin Dubai

City Walk is one of the most rapidly growing areas on Dubai’s dining scene, and licensed zone The Square is gradually becoming a hit.

Sitting next to Toro + Ko and Time Out Dubai’s Best Latin American restaurant 2018, LIMA Dubai, is Galvin Dubai. The latest venture from Michelin-starred brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin opened in late 2017, and so it’s with high expectations that we head to this chic restaurant.

The dishes take influence from Italy, the South of France and North Africa, promising an “innovative yet accessible” take on classic flavours.

We visit on a weeknight and it’s extremely quiet. But the restaurant is elegant and, thanks to the pocketed dining areas, manages to feel intimate rather than empty.

We opt for the menu du chef – based on the fact that it’s decent value for a seven-course meal from such a star-wielding duo, coming in at Dhs398 a head. It will also give us an excellent overview from the menu curated by executive chef Luigi Vespero, who has been entrusted with the role after several years working with the Galvin brothers.

The feast kicks off with a trio of signature starters, which includes steak tartare (rich and meaty), yellow fin tuna (tangy and fresh) and a beetroot salad (a fruity accompaniment).

The risotto of wild mushrooms is a highlight – a delicate serving of al dente rice in a creamy, shroomy dressing, lifted by a crunchy scattering of hazelnuts. The lasagne of Devon crab is also a big hit, and a far cry from any limp pasta bake you might envisage. Beef tenderloin with caramelised shallots and wild mushrooms is tender and a perfect flavour combination, while a chocolate fondant rounds it all off expertly.

All courses are petite, delicious and a great showcase of the famous brothers’ dishes. The only thing that lacks is the atmosphere. With a few more diners in, it could be top-notch.

The bill (For two)
2x menu du chef Dhs796
Total (incl service) Dhs796

The bottom line
Excellently executed dishes but lacks vibe.