GRAZE Gastro Grill
Time Out Says
So when a new steakhouse opens, it must be tough to make a mark and Graze finds itself trying to do just that. This “gastro grill” is one of the first licensed venues in City Walk. It sits on the ground floor of La Ville, and as well as a minimal dining room, there’s a terrace hidden from shoppers by some cannily placed foliage.
We’re outside, all alone (as we would be indoors) and staff seem surprised that we’re not hotel guests. Presumably business hasn’t quite picked up at the new restaurant yet.
Perhaps understandably, waiters are keen to busy themselves (thanks for recommending the most expensive item on the menu – a Dhs840 Kobe rib-eye – too).
The menu is split into small plates, things to share (essentially sides), grills and seafood.
We nibble on anchovy fillets and olives (which are also stuffed with anchovies – we might have been told) and a good bread basket, before tucking into a grain-fed Australian wagyu fillet (an absolutely sublime cut of meat) and a black Angus rib-eye marinated in mustard for 24 hours (next time we’ll try it without the marinade). Our side of grilled aubergine with a salsa verde and spicy sauce is excellent – all sticky charring and complex flavours. Broccolini with sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino pales in comparison, but judged on its own merits, is still tasty.
We enjoy everything, but it feels like something is missing at Graze. More guests might bring some atmosphere, but as it stands, the quality of meat is the restaurant’s biggest draw. However, there is still work to be done on the overall offering before it reaches the same level as the city’s top steakhouses.
The bill (for two)
1x marinated anchovies Dhs34
1x marinated olives Dhs26
1x 180g Australian wagyu fillet Dhs235
1x 350g 24-hour marinated black Angus rib-eye Dhs290
1x broccolini Dhs40
1x aubergine Dhs40
Total (excluding service) Dhs665
The bottom line
Quality meat but lacking in vibe.
By Time Out Dubai Staff | 28 Mar 2017
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