Time Out Says
Despite already having one restaurant at Atlantis The Palm, in the shape of Bread Street Kitchen, the British chef now has a second restaurant in the city under his name. Hell’s Kitchen, at the recently opened Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai, is named after Ramsay’s TV show of the same name.
Unlike the Las Vegas branch of the restaurant, however, guests at the Bluewaters outpost don’t enter into a pretend TV show dining experience (there’s even voting in the Nevada joint).
Instead, a meal here is served without the side of reality TV-style theatrics and gimmickry, which allows the food to take centre stage (as, arguably, it should).
Thankfully, Ramsay’s menu holds its own.
While the restaurant itself is vast (certainly inside – the terrace has a cosier feel), the menu is fairly short, comprised of family-pleasing, British-meets-international dishes.
There’s a burger (naturally), Caesar salad (it was invented at the Vegas hotel, after all), plus a raft of pasta and seafood dishes, among others.
Starters kick off strong – scallops with pea purée are as well cooked as you’d expect from a chef who’s spent a fair chunk of his career noisily berating others for their mistreatment of them on international TV. The prawn cocktail, meanwhile, is packed with plump, juicy crustacean, all enveloped in a tangy, spicy, palate-awakening Marie Rose dressing.
Of the mains, it’s the individually baked beef Wellington (pictured above right) that steals the show. Pastry perfectly golden and entirely intact, there’s not a juicy leak in sight.
Less successful (silky mash aside) are the accompanying root veg. As a result of their rather too al dente texture, combined with spherical presentation (why – why, Gordon – are they presented like melon balls?), they’re all but impossible to impale with a fork, and we end up sending them bouncing around the restaurant like musket balls.
Hell’s Kitchen isn’t a showstopper, but it’s the kind of reliably crowd-pleasing food Dubai has come to expect of Ramsay.
While it’s not exactly leaving Bread Street Kitchen in its wake, it certainly sticks the (Wellington) boot in.
WHAT IS IT...
Gordon Ramsay’s latest offering to Dubai’s dining scene
If you like the food he already does here, but fancy it done slightly differently
By Time Out Dubai staff | 02 Jan 2019
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