Time Out Says
‘I don’t know where the Bonnington is,’ came the reply. It’s right around the corner, that’s where it is.
I resolved to throw myself across the counter and throttle him on arrival. Of course, this never happened; instead, I politely asked for a menu and took my pick of the empty tables. KAS is not really an evening venue, it’s a place to grab a coffee and croissant before work or enjoy a cheap-and-easy lunch. Nonetheless, they were still serving when we visited; I chose the lamb shank special, while my flatmate, still sulking from the drive, opted for the fish and chips. We even ordered a couple of milkshakes while we waited for our meals (chocolate for me, vanilla for him).
It was fair to say we weren’t expecting much, so it was a pleasant surprise to be served a handsome-looking lamb shank on a bed of mash and a respectable plate of fish and chips – complete with vinegar. While the meat on the shank could have been of better quality, the mash was fantastic, as was the fact that it was dotted with rather good tomato chutney. My flatmate made good work of his fish and chips, though concluded that they were on a par with ‘good school-dinner fish and chips’. Take that as you will.
As well as our two mains, we’d also ordered a pizza. Not so much because we’re gluttons (okay, we are), but more to do with the fact that the pizzas at KAS cost just Dhs15. It was a little on the doughy side, but it wasn’t bad at all. However, the two of us had both overeaten and my lamb shank had already started to repeat on me, making the last few slices rather less enjoyable than they should have been.
KAS isn’t, nor do I think it tries to be, a place that’s worth visiting unless you live nearby. This isn’t to say I wouldn’t visit again, but only if I was lost in the maze of JLT – and I’d be asking for a coffee, not directions.
The bill (for two)
2x Milkshake Dhs20
2x Still water Dhs6
1x Lamb shank Dhs45
1x Fish and chips Dhs22
1x Pepperoni pizza Dhs15
Total (excluding service) Dhs108
By Oliver Robinson | 15 Feb 2011
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