Time Out Says
For a fast-food chain, the venue is spacious, colourful and clean. Tables are bright and well scrubbed, and the walls boast a handful of media clippings extolling the brand, as well as a number of doting Post-It notes from a growing local fan base. The menu is limited: there are chicken wings, drumsticks and fillets, which each come in either a spicy or soy garlic marinade.
What distinguishes Bon Chon’s chicken – and Korean fried chicken in general – is the method. Unlike KFC, these pieces aren’t breaded, but I didn’t miss it one bit: the skin has such a glorious crunch, with nooks full of sweet, luscious marinade. Supposedly it’s the method of double-frying these babies over low temperatures with trans-fat-free oil that gives the delicious texture (in NYC, trans-fats are banned). The soy garlic versions have a trace of sweetness and an addictive tar-like stickiness, while the hot ones start off mild and spread like a naughty grin.
There are several less classical sides to choose from. In place of mashed potato is a cold potato salad (basically mashed with pickled corn and courgette, it seems). While a standard coleslaw is available, so too is a kimchi version, guaranteeing a fierce kick. Sour radish comes complimentary, and while this may seem like a strange sidekick to hot wings, it actually makes a lot of sense. After downing several fiery bites, I was craving the accoutrement as a means of cooling my mouth.
There were no desserts on offer, but I didn’t mind: I was happy enough to polish off extra wings in place of a pudding. So, in answer to the question, is Bon Chon’s chicken worth the hype? The answer: yes – a resounding yes.
The bill (for two)
1x Drumstick value meal Dhs20
1x Wings value meal Dhs20
Total (excluding service) Dhs40
By Daisy Carrington | 01 Mar 2010
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