Luigi's Italian Restaurant

Basic Italian on Sheikh Zayed Road
  • 3

Time Out Says

There’s something grossly underachieving about Luigi’s, the Four Points By Sheraton’s new Italian restaurant. Never mind that it’s in the Four Points (a hotel chain I’ve never associated with gourmet cooking); visually, it feels like it’s been decked out only to blend in: beige is the reigning colour scheme. A couple of exposed brick walls – painted cream – give the place a little warmth, as does a soundtrack of gentle jazz muzak. But both things also hint that this place will be decidedly middling.

At the start of the meal, the waiters dropped off an amuse bouche of inconsistently warmed quiche lorraines. While I didn’t have high hopes at this point, I was pleasantly surprised by my crostini starter. Thin, crispy slices of bread were topped with roasted garlic, caramelised onions and a thick tomato spread – three sweet ingredients that made an impressive, if one-note, blend. My date had a tomato-based seafood soup. While this did manage to pack in some plump and meaty prawns, it was otherwise completely forgettable.

She had then bravely ordered a prawn and asparagus risotto. I feared the dish would be over-ambitious and fall short. I was wrong; it was passable. The portion was massive, and while the rice was al dente, the whole thing was dense and quickly filling. You wouldn’t need more than a couple of bites to fill up, let alone the mound they put in front of us. I ordered a thin crust, pepper-topped pizza that reminded me of something I’d pick up in the frozen section of Spinneys. It all added to the feeling that I could have spent the effort I took to get to the restaurant on making the same meal at home.

Luigi’s is definitely not a destination restaurant, and you almost get the sense that’s not what it wants to be. It aims low – the main objective, it seems, is to feed the guests staying at the Four Points who can’t be bothered to explore Dubai beyond the confines of their hotel rooms. The venue’s lack of ambition rubbed off on my date and me. When the waiter asked if we wanted dessert, I caught a look of fear on my companion’s face. She, like me, just couldn’t really build the motivation to try the tiramisu or gelato selection – both of which the place seemed to be proud of. We knew the desserts would probably live up to their praise, but, after our first and second courses, we just couldn’t summon the energy for the same old staples.

The bill (for two)

1x Large Aqua Panna water Dhs20
1x Crostini Dhs28
1x Seafood soup Dhs32
1x Pizza Dhs46
1x Asparagus risotto Dhs42
Total (excluding service) Dhs168

By Daisy Carrington  | 28 Sep 2009

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6:00 PM to 11:30 PM
Sunday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMMonday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMTuesday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMWednesday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMThursday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMFriday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PMSaturday: 6:00 PM to 11:30 PM
Show number +971 4 316 9711
Dubai, World Trade Center Area, Four Points by Sheraton, Sheikh Zayed Road

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