Time Out Says
Dubai Design District is rapidly becoming a hotspot for exciting new eateries, with charming French brasserie Chez Charles and hipster café The Lighthouse among those that have impressed us here at Time Out Dubai.
Molecule, billed as “French bistronomy” (the idea of combining “bold and rich flavours in a casual-dining setting”), is another one to add to that fast-growing list.
If you didn’t know Molecule was here, there’s every chance you might miss it, as the door is so inconspicuous. Once discovered, there’s a petite terrace with a European feel, hidden away from the road and office blocks, lending an intimate feel. The restaurant itself is housed in a narrow space with eclectic, artsy décor.
Sadly, despite it being a Thursday evening when we visit, the atmosphere isn’t quite there, with only a handful of tables filled. The food, however, makes Molecule worth a visit, with dishes of a standard you’d expect from Michelin-star-wielding chef Udo Moreau.
We kick off with a smooth tuna tartare, lifted by some punchy wasabi. Meanwhile the salmon fillet, served with a sticky soy glaze, is perfectly cooked and delicious.
Curiosity wins out and we can’t help ordering the goat’s cheese ravioli with lemongrass and prawn foam. What sounds like a zany combination of flavours is just that, but surprisingly really works. It’s a generous portion too, with plenty of the delicate, pillowy discs.
We follow our waiter’s advice as we venture into dessert territory, opting for Mysterious Arabica. Our trust is rewarded when an arty, chocolatey creation with a coffee taste comes our way.
It’s an ideal end to a top meal, that’s only slightly let down by the vibe. When d3 really comes into its own, so will Molecule.
The bill (for two)
1x tiger prawns Dhs74
1x tuna tartare Dhs58
1x goat's cheese ravioli Dhs74
1x salmon Dhs69
1x Mediterranean Dhs24
1x millefuille Dhs29
1x Mysterious Arabica Dhs35
1x large water Dhs22
Total (excluding service and tax) Dhs385
The bottom line
Excellent, well-thought out dishes in a room that’s a little on the quiet side.
By Time Out Dubai staff | 29 May 2017
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