Time Out Says
The service can be quite slouchy at Mosaico. When you eventually get served, you can expect starters such as the curled slices of parma ham with rocket, delicate artichoke and 24-month-old parmesan.
The beef carpaccio is moist, thinly-sliced and richly flavoured, while the sea bass with porcini mushrooms is expertly cooked, caressed by subtle hints of flavour and artfully presented on a bed of soft spinach. The penne pancetta with tomato sauce is like an overflowing treasure trove of juicy chunks of saline-cured ham.
If you have time after the slow service, order a traditional Sicilian cassata, a cooling mound of sweet ricotta and candied peel, or the splendid yoghurt parfait, which is only let down by some strangely textured melon jelly.
On previous visits to Mosaico, we had been delighted with what we ate and less enamoured with how we were served. And with a new head chef on board, the food here is still every bit as good, yet the sluggish service means that the clientele will inevitably be limited to hotel guests.
By Jeremy Lawrence | 26 Mar 2008
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