Time Out Says
Officially, Nanking is a Chinese restaurant. A cursory glance at its menu reveals that the culinary collar does not match the cuffs. Granted, there are nods to the big C, like the succulent spring rolls and deep-fried butterfly prawns of the starter platter. But the majority of main courses (gado gado, ayam kodok...) hail from Indonesia.
Nanking’s signature dish – vegetarian duck stamped from processed wheat gluten – is flavoursome and impossibly succulent. Alongside dim sum, try the mock duck lada kiring starter, with peppers and a sweet soy sauce. Not so good is the sweet and sour fish main, which is fairly tasty, but the thick sauce is so gloopy that it is virtually indistinguishable from the stringy house beef, pepper and onion hotplate.
There are some fine desserts – fried ice-cream bomb with almonds or vanilla ice-cream with whole nuts and fudge, but more impressive is the Indonesian national dish nasi goreng (fried rice).
A return visit is in order; whatever its origins, we sincerely hope that Nanking is going places.
By Jeremy Lawrence | 26 Mar 2008
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