Pierre's Bistro & Bar
Time Out Says
Where once sat the multi-award-winning Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire, all thousand thread count tablecloths and endless plates of tweezered flourishes, is now Pierre’s Bistro & Bar.
It’s been an 18-month wait for his new venture, and it’s immediately obvious the Frenchman and his team have paid attention to the direction Dubai’s dining scene is headed. Pierre’s instantly strikes the right tone, awash with floral accents in a far less formal setting, the bar has been made into a feature in its own right, and a ladies’ night has been launched, with free drinks and a reasonably priced set menu on Wednesday nights.
And service is impeccable. Even in the city’s very best restaurants, you’re not always guaranteed staff who know the menu inside out. Here, it’s a different story.
As recommendations spill forth, we’re happy to be led. Even, at times, against our better judgement (burrata with prawns? Can Gagnaire really torpedo such an unbreakable rule?).
Starters arrive, and the pan-fried squid with black garlic and shaved Paris mushrooms is glorious, the latter scattered like rose petals over tender rings.
Elsewhere, the burrata receives a less warm welcome. It turns out not even the culinary might of man whose restaurants have garnered multiple Michelin stars can make cheese and fish work together. Particularly in the face of such inescapably sweet prawns (why, Pierre?). To make matters worse, the burrata’s creamy, stracciatella-filled interior is much too cold, and holds together too firmly to feel as luxurious as it should.
For mains, our waiter’s recommendation of lamb chops is some of his best work – beautifully pink, expertly grilled and served with satisfyingly savoury, umami-packed jus.
Across the table, the garlic frog’s legs are less successful. Let it be known we deviated from our waiter’s suggestions for this one, but given they were one of two dishes from the amphibian genus on the menu, it felt as though the restaurant must have confidence. It’s possibly not misplaced, just not to our taste – while the meat itself is light and perfectly cooked, we’re irrevocably turned off by the enormous amount of crispy batter flakes they’re all hiding beneath.
In all, it’s a promising and more accessible return for the renowned chef – there’s even a burger on the menu (which, admittedly, we’re in two camps about). But if he’s so responsive to consumer feedback and trends, it’ll be easy enough to steer this second outing on a more successful course.
WHAT IS IT...
A more fine-casual restaurant from the renowned French chef
Ironically, it will probably to appeal to both those who loved and loathed Reflets
By Time Out Dubai staff | 03 Oct 2018
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