Fast food nation

Basic burger chain with Malaysian dishes

Steven Spielberg couldn’t have directed the carnage any better: bright fluorescent beams of blinding light, multicoloured missiles exploding all over the place, bodies falling over one another. And the yelling, the yelling…

We should clarify that the missiles on our visit were actually rainbow-coloured balloons from a birthday party that had taken over the restaurant’s entire medium-sized seating area, while the yelling did not emanate from the mouths of army generals but from prepubescent partygoers letting their hair down. Still, after eating the food at Marrybrown it did feel like we’d been through the trenches with the best of them. The menu offers run-of-the-mill fast-food fare: chicken burgers (so juicy you get sprayed upon first bite), mildly-spiced French fries and, of course, soft drinks (avoid the luminous orange Fanta). But the odd surprise pops up now and then like a friendly football match on Christmas Day: a buttered corn on the cob here, tiny but tasty portions of satay skewers and glutinous peanut sauce there. The restaurant also offers a ‘Malaysian Fiesta’ option that comprises scarily gloopy sweet ‘n’ sour fish and chicken fillets, not to mention chicken curry and a masak merah chicken, which troubled us with its clumpy rice, slightly undercooked chicken, limp popadoms and oily, bright red sauce.

Marrybrown has its fare share of inflexible rules. You can’t have potato wedges instead of fries, or juice instead of Coke (even if the juice is cheaper). It needs to get its priorities in check – loosen up in the order department and make some serious improvements when it comes to traditional Malaysian fare.


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