JBR’s low-key Asian eatery could double for takeaway
  • 2

Time Out Says

JBR’s branch of Soy is primarily intended as a takeaway joint – or at least that’s what I assume, given that it only has seating for 12 inside. Descending into the tiny avocado-coloured space is a little like entering a ship’s innards, but I’ve always enjoyed a good boat ride, so I didn’t let that put me off.

The menu offers dishes from China, Thailand and Mongolia, and is reasonably priced, with mains pitched around the Dhs50 mark. My date and I were temporarily distracted by the mocktail list, and ordered a Shao Lin (mainly out of intrigue, the description simply saying it was ‘tingling’ – the gingery fizz that turned up didn’t disappoint) and ‘the rise of the monk’, a strawberry, mango and cola concoction.

Prawn crackers – the white, greasy sort, just what we were craving – were whisked out by our friendly waiter, and then it was time for starters. The spring rolls were unremarkable, oily and bland, and the honey chicken was an odd starter: a tower of deep-fried, battered, sweet sauce-covered poultry strips (I am putting on weight just thinking about it) which was incredibly tasty but too much, and in need of accompaniment. It would have worked better as a main served with rice.

Next it was onto a rather excellent duck. The meat was plump, tender and un-fatty, with plenty of pancakes – in fact our only complaint was that there wasn’t enough meat, cucumber and spring onions to fill them all, though this was a desire fuelled by greed rather than need. For the other main, our waiter had recommended chicken with a lemon, butter and garlic sauce. What arrived was a plate of canary yellow gloop with some chicken lumps squatting in it. It was pretty unpleasant. The overriding flavour was butter, and it just didn’t belong in this otherwise pleasant eatery.

As we clambered offboard I decided I would indeed return to Soy, but only via the phone and certainly not when I was in a citrus-y frame of mind.

The bill (for two)
1x Shao Lin Dhs22
1x Rise of the monk Dhs22
1x Vegetable spring rolls Dhs26
1x Crispy honey chicken Dhs30
1x Peking duck Dhs66
1x Stir-fried chicken Dhs44
1x Fried rice with chilli Dhs32
Service charge (10 per cent) Dhs24.2
Total Dhs266

By Daisy Carrington  | 20 Jul 2009

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Show number 04 438 0303
Dubai, Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR), Sheikh Zayed Road, 5th Interchange - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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