Time Out Says
As do its prices.
When the first branch of the global chain arrived in Dubai’s JBR, the cost of dinner didn’t escape notice. But the latest branch ramps things up even further at the bar, with the cheapest glass of grape Dhs10 more per pour – a positively appetite-killing Dhs75.
In a market where diners are increasingly voting with their wallets, it’s little wonder this otherwise exciting new Downtown opening is less than half full on a Thursday night.
It’s a different story, however, on ladies’ night, when a deal starting with two courses for Dhs199 (not to mention three free drinks) sees the room packed to bursting with fans of all meals bovine.
Service overall is swift and attentive, if surprisingly chiding. At one point, we find ourselves being rather forcefully instructed not to eat too much bread, lest we spoil our appetites.
Fortunately, we’re deemed grown up enough to be left alone to tackle starters of grilled scallop and roasted octopus. The former is faultless, even if the Dhs115 price tag is a little harder to digest.
Across the table, despite great colouring and presentation, the octopus is both tough and enormously over-salted. It also feels oddly paired with the chickpea purée (or, as we tend to call it in these parts, hummus), all unhelped by a scattering of saltier-still olives.
Steaks, however are superb.
A rare USDA prime fillet (the relative steal of the meal, at Dhs189) is lean, tender, perfectly seared and seasoned, while the prime rib-eye is a 380g whopper – easily enough for two to share.
We’re warned early on that we’re unlikely to need more than one side, but order three for, erm, research purposes. Both the cloud-like mash and al dente broccolini disappear in moments, but we’re helplessly defeated by the monster mac ’n’ cheese. Which only serves to earn us another dressing down from our waiter on the way out.
Maybe we haven’t matured enough to order a meal here after all. Our savings accounts will certainly need to before we return.
WHAT IS IT...
Second Dubai branch for the international steakhouse chain
For the great-value ladies’ night on Tuesdays
23 Oct 2018
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