Excellent Persian eatery on Jumeirah Beach Road
  • 2

Time Out Says

No prizes for guessing the theme of cuisine at Tehran, a restaurant that boasts three branches in Dubai – all of which have opened in the past few months. Launching three restaurants at once is certainly a statement of intent, albeit one that doesn’t say quite as much as the straightforward, quality Persian fare my date and I enjoyed during a visit to Tehran’s Umm Suqeim branch.

Though the restaurant was quiet on the night of our visit, we were made to feel more than welcome by an army of staff who all but carried us to our table. We were promptly issued with a menus, mineral water and feta cubes, each served on an individual mint leaf. The tome-like menu featured an extensive array of Persian and Lebanese staples, but we were keen to stay true to the restaurant’s origins and asked our waiter to recommend a few choice Iranian dishes.

Before he could answer, a silver-haired customer began shouting at us from across the room. ‘You try the sultani,’ he implored. ‘And the jojeh is excellent. I am Iranian. I know these things.’ We obediently followed his orders and chose the chelo kebab sultani (minced lamb kebab) and jojeh (chicken kebab), as well as sides of maust khiar and mutabbal. I was beginning to suspect that our makeshift maître d’ was in fact the manager, until he had got to his feet, paid the bill and bid us adieu.

Not a bad start to our Tehran experience: an Iranian customer in an Iranian restaurant, assuring us that the food was excellent. And he wasn’t wrong. The jojeh kebab was succulent, glistening and chargrilled to perfection. The chelo kabab sultani came in two forms: a slither of smooth, buttery meat and a coarse, rippling kebab that exuded flavour. Both were superb.

The mains were served with an array of complimentary side dishes, which we’d have done well to have known about beforehand – finishing the food in front of us looked to be impossible. However, all these surprise salads turned out to be fresh, full of zest and expertly prepared. As such, we managed to clear our plates and leave room for a crescendo of sweet jasmine tea served from an ornate, golden teapot – a gilded finish to an excellent meal.

It’ll be interesting to see whether Tehran’s other two outlets serve food of a similarly high standard, or whether they too have an enthusiastic Iranian customer to help others with their order. Even if they don’t, we can still be thankful that Dubai has been graced with a great new eatery in Umm Suqeim 2.

Total bill (for two)
1x Mutabbal
1x Maust khiar Dhs30
1x Jojeh kebab Dhs100
1x Chelo kebab sultani Dhs150
2x Iranian tea Dhs10
Total (excluding service) Dhs310

By Oliver Robinson  | 21 Sep 2010

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Show number 04 348 2814
Dubai, Umm Suqeim, Jumeirah Road - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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