Time Out Says
Once inside TGI’s, your head will become dizzy with the amount of Americana tat on the wall. The usual suspects are there: a Harley Davidson sign, plenty of album covers and platinum records that sing of celebrity connections. The decor may be a little fake, but what about the grub?
The spicy buffalo chicken is a solid starter, but don’t bother with the hamburger sampler – five identical mini-burgers that leave you with not much meat and a whole load of unwanted bun. Main course burgers disappoint slightly too. The salmon with battered shrimps, meanwhile, simply doesn’t seem at all fresh and often emerges overcooked.
Vegetarians are surprisingly well catered for and can dig into thick potato skins loaded with cheddar cheese and a dollop of sour cream. Bruschetta is better than you’d expect, coming with a mound of garlicky salsa and triangles of bread dripping with sweet balsamic vinegar.
Deep-fried mushrooms are a bit plain, and don’t bother delving into the cheesecake – this is a soggy offering, which tastes more like a bowl of cream than cheese, and is only slightly rescued by the warm apple pieces drenched in a cinnamon sauce.
The Mall of the Emirates branch boasts a winning view of Ski Dubai, but even in the shiny happy world of American chain diners, you can do better.
By Jeremy Lawrence | 26 Mar 2008
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