The old: Het Groot Melkhuis
Order a diet-busting traditional Dutch pancake as large as your plate and people-watch from the lakeside terrace. This chalet-style café/restaurant in the heart of one of the city’s most popular parks also has a well-equipped children’s area.
Vondelpark Two (+31 20 612 9674; www.groot-melkhuis.nl)
The new: Studio K
Glitter balls and dog-eared ’60s furniture set the vibe at this rather indecisive but very funky eaterie, theatre, cinema and nightclub. Eat spicy lamb soup, orange cheesecake or uitsmijter (think croque madame) overlooking the terrace, with board games available if you fancy a bit of fun with your food.
Timorplein 62 (+31 20 692 0422; www.studio-k.nu)
The old: Eden Amsterdam American Hotel
A grand art-nouveau building in the museum quarter with tastefully refurbished spacious rooms. Meals are served in the Café Americain – a stunning art-deco room with Tiffany lamps, stained glass and recently uncovered murals.
Leidsekade 97 (+31 20 556 3000; www.edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com)
The new: Citizen M
Citizen M is a new concept for those who want luxury on the cheap. A little way out of town – though definitely bikeable – this design hotel is stuffed full of iconic furniture (Eames recliners and the like), but not irritatingly grinning and over-helpful staff.
Prinses Irenestraat 30 (www.citizenmamsterdamcity.com)
The old: Rijksmuseum
While most of its galleries are under construction for an ambitious renovation, the Rijksmuseum’s recently refurbished Philips Wing is accessible to visitors, with an exhibition that includes Johannes Vermeer, Frans Hals and of course, Rembrandt’s famous ‘The Night Watch’. Worth seeing.
Jan Luijkenstraat One (+31 20 674 7000; www.rijksmuseum.nl)
The new: The Hermitage
Following a €40million expansion, the Hermitage Amsterdam is 10 times its former size. Its grand opening last month unveiled everything from Romanoff thrones to Catherine the Great’s 18th-century carriage.
Amstel 51 (+31 20 530 8751; www.hermitage.nl)
KLM (www.klm.com; 04 319 3777) flies from Dubai to Amsterdaam daily, with prices currently starting at Dhs2,635