The Old: Trishna
At Trishna the seafood is always fresh, the crabs always huge and the adjacent table always too close for comfort. Order your crab with butter-garlic sauce, tuck your napkin under your chin and get stuck in.
Trishna, Sai Baba Marg, near Commerce House and Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort (+91 2261 4991)
The New: Blue Frog
You don’t visit the Frog to eat; you go there to catch the live music, admire the futuristic decor, watch pretty people flirt with the DJ and hobnob with rich culturati over pricy cocktails. Enjoy.
Blue Frog, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Tulsi Pipe Road, Lower Parel (+91 4033 2300)
The Old: The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower
The Taj hasn’t lost its charm to time, competitors or even terror attacks. You’ll find crystal chandeliers, Indian art’s finest gems, staff that treat you like royalty and a view that hasn’t changed in 106 years.
Apollo Bunder (+91 6665 3366; www.tajhotels.com)
The New: The Four Seasons
India’s only chef licensed to cut the poisonous puffer fish is found at the big and brash Four Seasons Mumbai. Rising out of the slums, the hotel is the brick-and-mortar embodiment of the new Mumbai – guaranteeing you a room with a view of a construction site.
114 Dr E Moses Road, Worli (+91 2481 8000)
The Old: Heritage Walk
Weave through the work crowd to take in the architecture of a gothic building here and a neo-classical one there; all well restored, thanks to an active heritage committee. The popular sites of the Gateway of India, CST railway station and the Rajabai Clock Tower are all within walking distance of each other.
The New: Dharavi Slum Tour
This tour of the city’s largest slum visits a recycling centre, where plastic is sorted and cleaned by hand; a potter’s quarter, where artisans bake clay into pots and lamps; and the leather workshops that supply to Paris designers.
Air Arabia has two daily flights from Sharjah to Mumbai currently from as little as Dhs950 return, departing at 4.45pm and 11.45pm.