The old: Bukhara
Besides the famous buttery dal bukhara, the luscious creamy raita here is a surprise hit. If you manage to get a reservation, you’ll find the rustic restaurant packed with businessmen and tourists.
ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel Marg, Chanakyapuri (+91 2611 2233; www.itcwelcomgroup.in/hotels/itcm aurya.aspx)
The new: Indian Accent
Expect regional Indian food (from Kerala to Kashmir), but the spicing and presentation are completely global. Don’t miss the foie gras-stuffed galawat: soft minced meat kebabs with morsels of foie gras inside and a drizzle of strawberry and green chilli chutney.
Manor Hotel, 77 Friends Colony West (+91 2692 5151; www.themanordelhi.com)
The old: The Imperial
This Janpath beauty opened in 1931. The rooms are enormous, with great views. Check out the vintage cars as you drive in and the art that lines the walls: if it wasn’t a gorgeous hotel, this could easily be a museum.
Janpath (+91 2334 1234; www.theimperialindia.com)
The new: Hotel Broadway
Built in 1956, a few rooms here were recently refurbished – painfully hip, but still comfy. Check out the Bollywood villain-themed bar, Thugs, and catch a movie at the beautifully restored art-deco Delite cinema next door.
4/15A Asaf Ali Road (+91 2327 3821; www.hotelbroadwaydelhi.com)
The old: NGMA
The National Gallery of Modern Art was opened in 1954 and houses modern Indian art. While the permanent collection is rotated occasionally, the best works – including a lovely collection of Amrita Sher-Gil’s portraits – are always on view.
National Gallery of Modern Art, Jaipur House, India Gate (+91 2338 6111; www.ngmaindia.gov.in)
The new: JAPA Arts India Tour
This recently launched initiative – conceptualised by Arvind Vijaymohan, a highly regarded local curator – is a customised experience that includes visits to artists’ studios, residency programmes, museums and leading galleries.
See www.japaarts.in for booking info
Air Arabia has daily flights from Sharjah to Delhi during August, and Fridays and Sundays during September, currently for around Dhs1,000 return