The Old: Bakery Café
You can’t say you’ve truly experienced Kathmandu without chowing down a couple of momos – a staple part of local cuisine sold on nearly every corner of the city. These juicy balls of dough are stuffed with minced meat, cheese, cabbage et al, and this place is famous for making some of the best in town.
Durbarmarg (+977 1422 2636; www.nanglos.com)
The New: Chez Caroline
French foodies will love this rather swanky bistro-style restaurant, which has all the classics from salmon croquettes to crepes. There’s a pretty garden to sit in, too.
Rana Palace (+977 1426 3070)
The Old: Dwarikas hotel
With beautiful 15th-century carved wooden doors, pillars, courtyards, and even a colonial bar, this luxury hotel is an absolute masterpiece containing priceless Nepalese artefacts, all lovingly collected since the 1950s.
Battisputali (+977 147 0770 / +977 147 9488; www.dwarikas.com)
The New: Shangri-La Village
Located at the highest ridge between the Kathmandu-Lhasa trade route, a wealth of hiking is at the doorstep of the Shangri-La Village. But you don’t even have to leave the grounds to feel close to the mountains – you can admire the snow-capped peaks from the floor-to-ceiling windows in your room.
Pokhara (+977 6146 2222; www.hotelshangrila.com)
The Old: Dubar Square
This district of Kathmandu is crowded with stupas and craft markets, all registered by Unesco. It’s also home to the famous ‘wooden house’ and, as to be expected, it’s overrun by hundreds of overeager, would-be guides.
The New: Fly the Himalayas
Jump onto a charter flight over the Himalayas, a mere 10 minutes out of Kathmandu Airport. The stewardess points out the peaks as though she’s on a London bus tour and each passenger is invited into the cockpit to check out Mount Everest.
Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com)
Fly from Dubai to Kathmandu on Saturdays, Sunday, Tuesdays or Thursdays with Nepal Airlines (www.royalnepal-airlines.com), currently for around Dhs1,560.