The Old: Al Meshwar
Easily spotted thanks to the faux rock façade, this sizeable restaurant has some of the best Lebanese/Arabic food in town, from your basic shawarma or falafel sarnies to seafood and grills. There’s free wifi downstairs, too.
Hamad bin Abdullah Road (09 223 111)
The New: Marco Polo
Sushi lovers will work themselves into a tizzy over the sushi bar at Marco Polo, which serves up raw fish so fresh and succulent it almost makes it worth driving to Fujairah just to eat here.
JAL Resort & Spa, near Dibba (09 244 9700; www.jalfujairahresort.ae)
The Old: Hilton resort
This low-rise, five-star retreat has a private beach and a friendly, relaxed vibe. It’s within walking distance to the town’s famous bull-butting extravaganza (see ‘Do: The new’), which only adds to the appeal.
Near coffee pot r/a (09 222 2411; www1.hilton.com/en_US/hi/hotel/SHJHITW-Hilton-Fujairah-Resort/index.do)
The New: Rotana Resort & Spa
A bit further up the coast, Rotana resort is another low-rise affair, with large suites that open out onto the beach or the pool. Best of all, most of the watersports available are free, so you can kayak or snorkel to your heart’s content.
Al Aqah Beach (09 244 9888; www.rotana.com)
The Old: Bidya Mosque
Blink and you might miss this tiny, dome-shaped structure – which is heralded as being the smallest and oldest mosque in the country, built in 1446, it predates the Portuguese invasion by more than 50 years.
Coastal road between Dibba and Khor Fakkan
The New: Bull butting
Perhaps not as new as other Fujairah attractions, but bull butting must be included as it’s one of the most incongruous sports in the country. It has no comparison with Spanish bullfighting, and is relatively bloodless, but the spectacle draws hundreds of people each Friday to a dusty pit just outside of town where muscular, bulky Brahmas butt each other into submission.
Next to Café Maria, along Corniche Road
Fujairah is around 130km by car from Dubai via Al Dhaid, and the journey should take around 90 minutes. Take the E11 towards Sharjah airport and the E88 to Dhaid. Turn right at the Masafi roundabout into Fujairah.